Strangely, when photographing animals, the ugly button doesn’t come into effect. For some reason I take much better pictures of birds/animals/plants than I do of people. This theory was put to the test yesterday, when I had the brilliant opportunity to get some shots of one of my wifes colleagues and his dog, Ed.
Ed is a gorgeous, three year old labradour with loads of energy, even more so when given a massive chunk of Nairn beach, white sand, sunshine, water and lots of willing helpers to play with him.
There are lots of things to consider when photographing dogs and I learned the hard way, having taken hundreds of pictures of our beloved German Shepherd, Jye who sadly died a few years ago. The photos I took are all we’ve got left of Jye, and I didn’t realise at the time how important the shots would become. Everytime I look at some of the photos, I’m hit with a wave of regret that I didn’t take more/expose better/get Jye to do this/that/the next thing that made her such a special dog.
5 things I consider when photographing animals.
1 – Get low.
Unless you’re extremely short or have an elephant for a pet, you’re going to be taller than your furry friend, everyone has hundreds of shots of themselves shooting down on an animal. It doesn’t look natural and you gain intimacy in a shot by getting the animal to make eye contact with you, or at least have the eyes on the same plane as the lens. Alternatively, stand on a slope and get the animal to come either ‘uphill’ or ‘downhill’ to you, this will force the dog to look up/down and can make for some intresting angles.
2 – Get the light right.
Furry things tend to have glossy coats. Especially in bright conditions, you run the risk of over-exposing parts of the animal where the light is bouncing off their coats. Dial down your exposure compensation, I shot everything on the beach yesterday with at least -0.3 exposure compensation and in some cases getting down to -1 and even -2 in places. This will make the shot look dark when you’re reviewing them on the camera, but you can recover dark shots, blown highlights are blown highlights unless you have an uber-camera with uber-cabilities.
3 – Long and tight is (usually) right.
Dogs move about a lot and tend to focus on things in their immediate vacinity (sticks/people/other dogs etc) so a zoom lens with a decent reach is a good way to go. I don’t find a tripod hugely useful when photogaphing animals because they move about faster than I can adjust the tripod. So a medium zoom lens, something in the region of 50-200mm that you can keep stable in your hands works best for me. Get nice and tight on the subject so the animal fills a good chunk of the frame, you need a bit of context but don’t lose sight of the fact that you’re photographing the dog.
Note the word usually in the comment above, throw a few wide shots into the mix as it will give a set of photos some depth.
4 – Do something!

Get the animal to do something, there’s nothing more boring than “Dog sitting and owner standing”, it doesn’t really tell a story and due to the height difference, it doesn’t’ really work on a compositional level either. Throw things for the dog, roll about with the dog, get the dog to jump/bark, it doesn’t really matter, just do something!
5 – Be creative when post-processing
Something I’ve been guilty of in the past is spending hours on landscape shots and minutes on portraits. It’s true that good portrats should stand on their own merit, but try black and whte, try ‘colour popping’ a subject, try a frame or a creative crop and if you’ve followed rule 2, you’ll need to balance the light and recover any dark bits in the shot.
So there you go, I’m pretty happy with the 100 or so shots that I took yesterday, you can see the whole selection on Picasa and a few choice ones on Flickr (Thanks to the 15,000 people who have already visited my Flickr site, all visitors and comments greatfully received).











